Tirana

Tirana is a very unique place that is packed with people, noise, construction, roaming dogs, garbage, and no doubt the most colorful city I have ever visited. It is hard to get around, lots of traffic, obscene amounts of disorganization, loose street tiles that splash water all over you, and somehow has a way of completely captivating your heart in ways that you can't fully wrap your head around. This is Tirana.

I met up with Mira Xhaferaj, my lovely companion of 3 months. We met up and went out to the best crepe place in the city. While we were sitting there the Elders walked by and quickly waved before running off to their next appointment... that was weird. This is my Lopa and I am her Zogu.

The next day I met up with my dear Megi who I spent a lot of time with as a missionary. She is an amazing girl with a very strong desire to put her knowledge to work, it was so good to see her and just walk around like no time had passed at all. Mira met up with us and we sat and talked for a while before Mira had to head to work. Megi and I then went for a stroll down Myslym Shyri, my favorite street in Tirana. Myslym Shyri is not only the most beautiful street in Tirana, but it feels like home most to me because I lived off this street, talked to a lot of people on this street, and walked it back and forth numerous times as a missionary. Towards the end of my 6 months there, I knew just about everyone on that street and I loved that feeling because it was exactly like Monterey to me. I can't go anywhere in Monterey without running into someone. (Something that drives Miss Ashley bonkers!)
Megi and I walked through the open market to grab some hair clasps... they are so much stronger than anything you can find in the states.
A quick stop by our church and a nice visit with the Elders that were running off to a meeting. We then headed to see Megi's Mom at her work and as I walked up her Mom had the funniest look on her face trying to figure out who I was. When she realized she jumped up and said, "Motra Langford!" She didn't know I was in town and was very excited to see me. We hugged and laughed and hugged some more. We stayed and visited for a while and she introduced me to just about everyone that passed by. It made me smile.
This was such a wonderful surprise. After leaving her Mom's work walked towards the bus station and along the way we saw a group of missionaries! I couldn't help but run up and start talking. There were 4 sisters and 4 elders. Quite a few of them had only been there for a day and I felt for them greatly because I knew exactly what was going on in their heads, "What just happened? Where am I? What is this language that I don't understand? Now what?" We snapped this photo and I wished them luck as they made their way to Vlore.
Megi and I took the bus to meet up with a friend of hers at a cafe and sat for a while and just relaxed. I really needed this because to stay consistent with true Albanian fashion I had to get food poisoning during my stay, which of course fell on the last day when I had planned to eat a Sufflaqe with dhalle. For those that know what that is can feel my pain because I was unable to eat that while on my little visit "back home". Tragic, I know.

Megi and I eventually parted ways and I was able to have a lovely stroll by myself around the city. I was walking rather slowly because I wasn't feeling to wonderful, but it was still nice to just take my time and soak in all the craziness of Tirana. This first photo is of the Xhami (mosque) in the center of the city. I loved hearing the prayers throughout the day, something I had greatly missed over these past years. Following is the iconic statue of Skenderbeu, a famous Albanian historical figure that is recognized for saving the country, and the surrounding region, from the Ottoman Empire.
When I arrived back from my outing, the Lami family was incredibly worried that I was still sick. They wanted to know what was wrong, and soon my stomach became the main topic of conversation.... for the rest of the evening. Nena was convinced that I was simply experiencing the aftermath of a hang over and no matter how many times I tried to tell her that I don't drink and that wasn't a possibility... she continued to mumble under her breath "that's what you get for drinking!" I eventually gave up. They also kept insisting that I eat this "special cure all remedy" (albanians are full of them) which would make all my feelings of wanting to yack flee from me. I eventually gave in to this one as well.... Hard boiled egg with salt and oregano washed down with Coca-Cola.
This is Diana Lami, the daughter of the family I stayed with in Tirana. We went there every Friday on my mission and this was taken on one of those nights. Diana and I were very close. The next photo was from this trip... sporting one of my flowers of course!
Diana's Dad Andi who I have kept in very close contact with since my mission.
Upper right hand balcony, look closely. Nena is standing watch.

Leaving the airport and on my way to Hungary for a nice afternoon before heading back to Switzerland.

A view of Monte Negro and the Adriatic Sea outside my window. I want to go there someday... and Croatia. I must dive Croatia. What do you say girls?

Memorable Moments

Any Albanian followers? What is wrong with this picture? I couldn't help myself but snap this and laugh. If you want some more of pictures like this go to Cudira Shqiptare on Facebook and Enjoy!

I took the pleasure of sharing a little bit of Albania with you in this post and the next ones to follow. Each one of these photos has left an impact on me and may not seem so incredible to anyone, but I still wanted to include them because of what they mean to me.

First off, the road that leads to the chapel in Keneta, (Durres). When I first moved to this area, this was an open black water canal that absolutely wreaked of dead animals, garbage, sewer, and old discarded food. The creatures out here were always of the unusual and semi-mutant type. Mosquitoes as big as small hummingbirds and these swamp rats that were the size of a skunk. I remember walking in the dark and having one run across my feet, I wanted to die. This is also the area that, as God desired, we had the most work and were there every day of the week which is about a 45 min walk from were we lived. I would come home with mud up to my knees and soon found out that those European bidets worked wonders for scrubbing the mud off my boots... every night.

While I was there, so happens that the Albania government decided to purchase some land and wanted to build a major cut off to the city covering and paving the canal. This of course meant that it had to be dug up, pumped out, and eventually have an actual road be constructed. I saw this begin while I was still a missionary and as I walked out there for the first time after almost 3 years, I was shocked to see this beautiful road with a direct shot to the church. I love the conveniently inspired location.

I was absolutely surprised to see this guy still alive. He lives along the roadway, still searching for food. The magical road to the Osmanallaraj Family (Lefterie and Nesibe). The first time I went to their house, it was magical and felt like home in a way, like I had been there 1,000 times before. There are more houses, and the existing ones have grown, but it still felt the same.

This is a classic Albanian snapshot. An older man coming into town to try and sell some fresh produce, talking to his friend that just left the butcher with a fresh cut of veal. Albanian roads. There is something to be said for Albanian roads and I make this connection and realization from a rather sincere place in my heart. I didn't fully make the connection until I sat listening with my dear friends in Durres while we listened to the General Conference Broadcast over the internet. It was Elder Uchtdorf's talk on "Of Things That Matter Most" when he talked about slowing down and doing things right to not get overwhelmed. I thought a lot about how I try to always get over something quickly, especially when it will be for the improvement of who I am and the quality of my life. I want the fix now and I want it to be perfect. I know how to get there, but I like to skip important steps or cut corners to get there faster, and how easy it is to make it look like I got everything under control. I quickly paint over the rust, because if I don't see it and if other's don't see it than it must not be there. Over time, like always, the true colors of pain, anger, frustration, weakness, and disconnect from my Heavenly Father begin to show and I panic reaching for the coverup one more time.

This past year, more than any other time in my life, I am really trying to make the effort to get to the body of things, and relay a solid and balanced base or foundation so that I can build up from there. I can feel it happening, and even though I know it can't, and won't happen over night, it will eventually happen. With faith and the help of the Lord of course. So, as I walked around my beautiful Albania on there broken up roads, I was reminded of this very principle. The streets are so quickly done, that no foundation is ever fully constructed, if any at all. As a result, these roads only last for so long and then they crumble to pieces and the thought of beginning from the bottom up seems overwhelming and slightly impossible. So the roads that were once clean and inviting, slowly degrade overtime and become completely neglected. If only they put in the time and effort to do it right the first time. If I only put the time and effort to do it right the first time.
This last photo may be hard to see, but directly under the sun is a boy sitting contently and playing with some small game. No TV, no internet, no gameboy or cell phone. It just reminded me of Christmas morning on my mission when I passed these two small boys that had made kites out of a plastic bag and string. They were ecstatic. I thought of all the kids in America that were most likely pouting because they didn't get what they wanted, or they liked what their brother or sister got better. I love the simplicity and the gratitude of these people. Amazes me and humbles me over and over again.

Sukth: A Night to Remember

I caught the last bus out of Durres on Monday afternoon and headed towards Sukth. The man that collects the money for the trip said, "Ku eshte shoqe?", meaning "Where's your friend?". I said that this time I was just by myself, that I had finished my mission. He said that he noticed me the other day, but didn't think it was actually me so he didn't say anything. He asked the usually questions "How are you? What have you been doing? When did you get here? When do you leave? Where are you going? How is your health? How is your family? Do you need help with anything?" All of this, keep in mind, happening in less than 1 minute. He made sure to watch over my stop and shouted for the bus driver to stop and helped me with my bags. Another angel along my path.

I made it to Sukth with no problem. As soon as turned down the street to head to Genta's parents house, her younger brother Miri was waiting for me, grabbed my bags and guided me towards Genta's new house. Genta was there with her Mom and Baby, Suemi. We visited for a bit and then I went with Genta's Mom to go see Tezja (her Aunt) while Genta wrapped things up with Suemi. We went to the internet and I showed them some photos of my travels, when the pictures came up of me in Tahiti diving with the sharks, the whole place freaked out! It was hilarious! I have no idea how many people were surrounding my computer. Instead of being the "Motra Misionare from Amerika" I became "Kati, the Girl Who Swims with Sharks!"

Genta's sister and bro-in-law, Alida & Zabiti, drove into town to see me and to have dinner. It was sooooo good to be all together like a family again. The only two people missing were Sulltana, her younger sis, and Nena. We all went to a restaurant in town for dinner, it was all decorated for a wedding that weekend. We sat and ate and laughed and laughed and laughed. (L to R: Genta, Shpetim, Zabiti, and Alida).

We sat there for a while talking about Life, Alabania, America, Family in between bites of warm Pilaf, Sausage, and Salads of cheese, radish, tomatoes, carrots, hot peppers, and lots of oil and lemon. We had fresh bread and another soup with some type of meat in it! We had a great time taking photos, sharing stories, and talked about what we should do, it was only 8:00 at that point. Zabati thought we should go out and find a place to go dancing. Genta said, "I can't go because of Suemi." I said, "I don't go if Genta doesn't go." Alida said, "I don't go if Kati doesn't go!" So, being the lovely and sweet little Grandma that Genta's mom is she offered to come with and sit in the car to stay with the baby and with Alida's boy. Thanks nena!
GEZUAR!!!!!!
The night was perfect and being a Monday night, the place was pretty baron. That didn't stop us at all. There was great company, perfectly loud and obnoxious Albanian music, the lovely "Bravo" drinks, and there was dancing. A lot of dancing.
L to R: Genta, Me, Miri (Genta's bro), and Alida
Miri is a jokester and always has something funny to say and do. Always good for a laugh. I looked up at one point and he was pretending to be a belly dancing with my shawl over his face. I was laughing to hard to snap that photo, so this will have to do.
Yes, I actually fell asleep at the Club.
We got back to Genta's and I offered to hold Suemi while Genta put some things away that she had wanted to get done all week.
When she was already for bed we took sometime and shared reading the scriptures together. We had a great discussion and then I asked if she wanted to say a prayer... the moment I had been waiting for. The power behind this girl's words get me every time. She really talks with God, communicates with Him and is so incredibly sincere. The whole time I was praying in my heart that I was so thankful that God blessed me with this person in my life. She thanked God as well that I came to her village, didn't judge her living arrangements, and brought His Word to her and her family. More words were said, to special to share. We hugged and crawled into bed. We laid in bed for hours and just talked and talked. She kept looking at me and saying, "I can't believe I am actually here." She is so cute and sweet. At one point in the night she said, "Kati, can I say something without you getting offended?" I said, "Genta you couldn't say anything to offend me." She replied in a very soft whisper, "I think you look much better in that outfit you wore today than how you dressed as a missionary." I died! I absolutely died! I burst out into the biggest laugh so far during my trip here! Poor Genta didn't know what to do. I just said, "Oh, I love you Genta."

We stayed up giggling and talking about life, love, trials, what it would be like if she could ever visit me in America, the things we would do. We shared dreams, fears, and even some tears. It was a great night. We were up until the roosters starting waking up and I knew that I was going to be dead the next day, but something inside me knew that it would be worth it. It definitely was. We said Goodnight and she turned over on her side. I stayed there looking up at the ceiling and she rolled over to look at me. I said, "I'm still here!" She said, "Thank you for keeping your promise and coming back here." She said goodnight again and I said, "Genta, I could find some skirts like the ones from my mission if you would like!" We laughed....
The next morning came VERY quickly with the tired eyes and a pounding head. Genta was already up and dressed because her husband's family had come into town and wanted to see me. I pulled myself out of bed and walked outside to use the bathroom and wash my face with a tea kettle that was full of rain water. I went in to see them and it was good to see some more familiar faces. We chatted for hours and had a nice lunch, the whole time just staying in the same room. Genta's bro-in-law Luli was there and I asked him the easiest way to get to Tirana, by Furgon or Bus. He said, "Neither, I'll take you myself." What another blessing. This has been the easiest place to visit of all the places of been, ever. I had no plans before I came here, not even someone to pick me up from the airport! No cell phone, nothing. Everything has come together so seamlessly, it has really been blessing after blessing.

Before we left we started a conversation, with everyone, about arranged marriages. How everything could be so much different in a family if you could decide for yourself who to love. This conversation was triggered by a neighbor who was just married. She was 17 and he was 45. They met for the first time on their wedding day, by shaking hands in front of everyone. The conversation continued and it was amazing to hear Luli's thoughts about marriage and love. It was so unexpected. Sure it's easy to imagine girl's dreaming about love and who they want to marry, but it was so... refreshing.. to hear a 25 yr old Alabanian talk about love and how much better his life and everyone's life would be with love. Genta came with us to Tirana and the conversation continued all the way there. I was so amazed, I don't know why, as to how this conversation struck me. How thankful I am that I have the ability to make my own decisions about how I want to spend the rest of my life and who I want to spend it with. Luli's parents have offered to arrange a marriage for him, but he refused. He said that he will be ready when he feels love. He hasn't felt that yet and he believes that he will. Meet Luli.
They took me to Tajvani, a huge gathering place in the center of Tirana. They laughed because I knew how to get there better than they did. We parked and walked to an internet place so I could get some numbers to call Andi and Eva Lami. I called Andi and he said, "Eva is already there waiting for you!" I walked outside and there they were, parked car and all, just waiting for me! Again, another seamless transition. I stayed with the Lami Family last night and it was storming all night long with loud thunder. This morning I had a nice leisurely breakfast with their nena, while we sipped chamomile tea and ate some warm bread and fresh fruit. We sat for a while and then... the power went out! Why does this make me so happy! I remember the beginning of my mission, how cold I was without power. We sat there, all three of us: Nena, Eva, and me, wrapped up under a blanket and talked. The first bit was how messed up the albanian government is, we talked about "Nje Zot!" ("One God!"), and how nice it is when the power goes out. No power means no water. No water, means no cleaning. No cleaning means no cooking. It's forced relaxation really. So thats what we all did. Listening to the pouring rain, we all drifted off into a nice sweet slumber, all cuddled up under the same blanket. Have I mentioned that I love this place?

More love nga Durresi!

It seems as if my time has been flying by, full of good memories and treasured moments. It is a wonderful feeling that as I sit and try to write this out that only Albanian is coming to mind. All these words, and expressions, that seem to make so much more sense and have so much more meaning behind them than what we have in the English language. At the same time, I feel restricted in a way because I fear that my words might start sounding like that of a first grader. So, bare with me as I might fall back into the basics of english grammar.

I have had a wonderful time in Durres full of visits and laughs and moments that have been burned into my heart and have no doubt changed who I am. I have had sleep overs, coffee dates, eaten great food, and have pleasured myself with a few more Z's here and there and have soaked up more of the area... now that I can walk a little slower and really see more of this place that I love so dearly.

Friday was a great day, had another long run in the morning and took some time to just sit and reflect on the balcony at the Cenollari's house while hanging my laundry out to try. Looking over the city and just thinking about all the magical and amazing, life altering experiences I have experienced here as well as the lives of so many Albanians. It was a great moment, a beautiful selfish moment to just be me, perched over Durres and the Adriatik Sea. Later in the day, I picked up Flori and Arseda from school and we went to get Nesibe and Lefterie for a Young Women's activity. I totally felt like a missionary again, it was great. We took the girls out and walked around and ended up at "Fly" a new restaurant that overlooks the waterfront and port. It was a wonderful evening, perfect weather out.

We took the girls home afterwards and when I arrived to Nesibe and Lefterie's house to drop them off, their father was pretty upset that they were out. No reason really, just got upset. I had had an amazing conversation with Lefterie and she was able to express her passion for the Gospel but that her Father was greatly against it. She knew that there were plenty things that she could do, and does, to remain faithful. Having a muslim background and family, I can't imagine what it's like to be 16 and have to go against that grain. I dropped them off, and was holding back the tears all the way home. I got in the elevator and when I saw Adriatik I broke into tears, he hugged me and tried to get me to smile. What soothed me was little Floriana, 11 years old now, in her sweet soft spoken English says, "Motra Kati, you cannot be upset for her Dads anger. He is not right in the head!" This made me laugh and she hugged me. She then decided to do what any girl needs to do in that kind of moment.... pamper herself. We got on her bed and painted our toenails. She insisted on making these little flowers out of post-it notes to put on my toes. I let her. I feel asleep and woke up to Arseda bringing me breakfast in bed and Floriana putting more flowers on my toenails. It was so sweet. The breakfast was delicious as well!

Later that day we drove out to the beach and I finally got to get in the water! OH... after all that time being surrounded by water and not going in... it was great to... well.. just DIVE IN.

We had brought food for a picnic and had a great BBQ. The weather was beautiful and we were the only ones out there. A man came by that owned a nearby restaurant and he told us to come and sit on his patio, he took out a table and chairs for us too. Albanians are so generous. Always giving more than they have.

After we left the beach, we headed back so I could get to Denada's to watch General Conference. We were going to have a slumber party with Denada, Jonida, and Arjona. Floriana wanted to come with and stay the night, and that she did. We got clothes ready for the night and for church the following morning and headed over to her house. The walk over was so precious to me. We shared my iPod listening to random music, holding hands, and munching on sunflower seeds. She always had this HUGE smile on her face. It was adorable. Conference was great, as expected. It felt so good to listen to it in Albania, not sure why. We followed conference with dinner, and Albania movie "Martesa e Avokatit", and the "Bride & Prejudice". I slept with Flori and she was in the middle of the bed all night snuggling right up to me. It was so tender. When I woke up in the morning, she was staring at me. All she said was, "Morning, I love you!" With that big smile on her face.

Church on Sunday was great. I got to see everyone and had a wonderful time catching up with everyone. I felt so welcomed and so loved. It was fast and testimony meeting and I was deeply moved with the devotion of Justine Dodaj, a member that has been sick for a while and couldn't go to church. All she had was the scriptures and her faith to give her the strength she needed. It moved me. How much we take for granted on a regular basis. I also enjoyed seeing the Elders up there exposing their raw emotions and love of the Gospel. I loved seeing the transformation the Elders took on my mission, from wild and crazy (and rather annoying) boys in the MTC, to polished and refined spiritual soldiers. It's always a joy to see that again.

After church I went back to Nesibe and Lefterie's and was so happy that their Dad wasn't home! We had a great visit and were able to say a prayer together, just like old times. Lefterie offered it and it was so powerful, no doubt. I love these girls like my own sisters.
Familja Cenollari.... aren't they just amazing! Look at them!
Now, here we are as a complete family!
I stayed the last night in Durres with Motra Muca, Sonila's mom. (The girl I've been staying with in Germany). We stayed up rather late, swapping stories and just hanging out really. It was a good visit. She is an amazing cook.
My last morning in Durres was another selfish moment that I enjoyed so dearly. There are certain professions/businesses that are on every block here in Alabania. They consist of: Bread Store, Bars, Tailor, Grocery Store, Gambling Club, Bakery, and the Hair Stylist. I spoke of going to visit a dear friend Shqiponja earlier this week. Well, her daughter is a hair stylist and I went to spend the morning with her. The reason why this was a selfish moment, is because on my mission when we didn't have work, or it was frrrrrreezing cold out, or if I just missed my girls back home I would always walk by one of these places and see girls sitting in their talking, watching a video, or just being together. I took the pleasure of reconnecting with Jona while she redyed my blue little spark of color, she painted my nails, and did my makeup. It was so fun and relaxing and there was no pressure at all. It was splendid in deed!

I have so much more to share, and will try and get on in the morning to write another post. Its a good thing that I haven't had anytime, believe me. Until next time.....