Durres, Albania

Durres- My Home away from Home. Since my last post, so much has happened. I have been bouncing around town colliding with Albanians as I go. Some as planned, some as God would have it. Either way it has been absolutely delightful. Starting on Tuesday afternoon with my dear friend Eri. I went to Eri's house and she wasn't there. As I came back down her staircase I was supposed to go left, but went right at the last minute. As I came around the corner, there she was. I ran up to her and she just kept looking at me like "Who is this person running right at me?!?!?". I think she realized who I was about the moment my arms enfolded around her. She just kept laughing. It was such a sweet reunion. I got to see her little girl (who is not so little) Ema. She was 2 1/2 when I was here last and she remembered me! Amazing. I spent the day with them, had lunch, and we walked around.

After spending some time with them I made some plans to go to my sweet Cenollari family at 5:30. Some of you might remember at my homecoming I spoke a lot about this family with such an amazing conversion to the Gospel.... well that is this family. Adriatik, Antoneta, Areseda, and Floriana. I came around the corner at 5:21 and Floriana was standing watch on their 10th floor balcony waiting for me. She ran in the house, and out came Arseda and Antoneta. I couldn't hold back the tears (and that blasted elevator couldn't have gone any slower!). It was so good to see them and hear their voices again. As soon as I entered in their house, it just felt like home. So comfortable. Antoneta had to leave for an appt, so I stayed behind with the girls and waited for Adriatik to come home. When the door bell rang, I answered it and he was so surprised. I love this family. I have been staying with them all week and we've pushed the beds together in the girls' room and have slumber parties every night. I get up with them and walk them to school in the morning while they practice their English.

On Wednesday after taking the girls to school I went for a long run in the rain and the looks I got were hilarious. Running is rarely seen here, unless you're playing futboll or running from a wild pack of city dogs. But running in the rain is even more insane. I was completely drenched but it felt great. I ran all along the area of where I worked the most, knowing all the roads better than the back of my hand. Later that day I met up with Eri and Ema. Ema wanted to spend the day with me, so off we went. It was sunny out, but she wanted to take her umbrella with her. She's adorable. We went to visit my friend Shqiponja for lunch. We had fish and salad which was amazing and full of flavor which is typical for Albanian food (I'm not complaining!). Ema ate more than I did! I treated her to an ice cream afterwards and then we went to pick her brothers up at school. They remembered me by the "Motra with the eyes like the ocean." That made me smile.

After meeting them after school, I was supposed to head over to meet Denada and Arjona to go out for the night. Denada told me to meet over at Arjona's house around 7:00. I allowed myself enough time to have a leisurely stroll over to her house and arrived about 10 min early. I wasn't there for more than 1 minute when I heard, "Motra Langford!" I looked up and saw Sokol, one of my absolutely devoted and wonderful English students. He spoke English very well, but always did his homework and reading, volunteered and helped every class. He became a sidekick to all the missionaries and is such a sincere and genuine person. I was incredibly happy to see him. We chatted for quite a while and he said he doesn't even live in that area but that he was just going to fill up some water jugs for his family. My phone rang and Denada asked where I was. I told her I was where I was supposed to be at Arjona's and she said, "Oh, I thought I said Eri's. Sorry, my bad!" So, who knows what she said but I am so thankful that I got to see Sokol. We parted ways and I just smiled, so grateful that I walked 20 minutes out of my way in the dark to wait somewhere I was exactly supposed to be to cross paths with him.

I met up with Denada, Arjona, and Jonida for a walk along the water towards Vollga. We sat down at Cela, this knew gelateria and nibbled on some gelato and I couldn't help but have Salep. I missed that drink! From Left to Right: Arjona, Jonida, Me, Denada.

The Magical Albanian Wishing Well. Careful what you wish for! :o)
This is the view from the Cenollari's balcony. The left is the Port where the Ferry comes in from Italy and if you look just right of the center you will see a yellow and orange building. My apartment is the brighter yellow just to the right of that with the balcony facing the water.

Walking the girls to school. This is Flori, she has a very special place in my heart. Sporting one of my Gill Frills accessories of course!

Sukth. Sukth is just outside of Durres that requires me taking a 30 min bus ride to get to. This is where my dear dear friend Genta lives with her family. A place that I spent a lot of time at as a missionary. I walked up to the bus station in Durres and before I could open my mouth, the man right next to me said "Bus to Sukth", so I walked right on the bus was moving before I sat down. That was too easy. Usually you have to ask the Banana Man for help and then there is a wait. Not for me! I made it to Sukth, got off by the Shoe Factory and was greeted by a lovely young calf that was freshly skinned with his guts on the ground. Blood everywhere. Yes, that too made me smile. I walked down the street with a trail of school kids following me and familiar faces giving me double-triple takes. I went to her house, and saw that it was in ruins! I walked around back and went up to the house in the backyard, it was new. The door was open, but I saw the familiar couch and took off my shoes and walked in. I could hear her Mom say, "Hajde" or "Come in!" We met on the staircase and when Genta's Mom saw me she said, "Motra Keti!!!" It was wonderful. Genta had gone into town, but I got to see her new little girl that is just 1 month old named Suemi. Her Mom and I took Suemi for a walk to go see Genta's Aunt, "Tejza". She was at work cleaning when I walked up and when she saw me she started laughing while saying, "Motra Keti!". She put down her mop and hugged me while lifting me off the ground. We sat there for a few hours and just chatted and caught up. Like clock work after an hour, they said, "Do you need to go!?!" I reminded them that I wasn't on my mission anymore and that I could stay longer than an hour. They were so happy, begging me to stay with them for the night.

This house to the bottom left, now without a roof, is where Genta and her family were introduced to the Gospel. I spent once a week for 9 months at this house. Beautiful prayers and lessons were born in between those walls.

View from their roof.
Meet Gentjana. Gentjana, or Genta, just might be the strongest and most influential person from my mission. Her story, her family, her faith, her trials, her commitment, but most of all her attitude about it all has left such an intense impact on my heart and the kind of person I want to be. She is only 21 yrs old and if I had the life she's had, I don't know if I'd be as strong as she is. She is a spiritual giant and I look up to her in so many ways. She is a kindred spirit to me and I love her and have missed her terribly. The Lord brought the truth to her with my voice, but she taught me how to put it to use.

Genta and I talked for hours, and I am going back on Monday to stay with them for a night or two. Before I left and we kissed our Goodbyes Tejza said, "See you on Monday and be ready to dance all night long!" We danced a lot at their house, traditional Albanian dancing that is, in their small little living room. I will try and video it. From L to R: Arjona, Me, Genta, Mamaja, Tejza.

I would've stayed all day in Sukth, but was torn because I had scheduled and wanted to see this other sweet family: The Osmanallaraj Family. Lefterie, Nesibe, Mirejeta, Floriani. I met Lefterie and Nesibe in the road my first week in Durres. We invited them to the free English classes we were starting up and told them about Church, pointed them in the direction and what time it started. They were there the following Sunday, and every week afterwards. These two girls became my go-to girls. They were always there to help, go on splits, give lessons on their own when there were too many people at the church. Their first calling was to clean the black boards and organize the hymn books. Those two things were never done so carefully in all the history of the church. Meet Lefterie.

This is Nona. Nona doesn't live at the house, but when she heard I was there she came over to see me and wanted to show me her new teeth! She couldn't help but smile so big! She kept covering her mouth, she was so shy. My heart fell in love with her all over again. As you can see by what she is wearing, this Nena just isn't your average Albanian Nena that is dressed in black. She thinks it's silly to wear all black when you become widowed. She wears the white shawl over her head (which still has color on it btw), but other than that, she'd rather be as colorful as possible. We compliment each other's wardrobe often! She would love my curtain dress! :o)
L to R: Nona, Me, Flori, and Nesibe.
Last night, instead of eating dinner, I took the girls out on the town! Adriatik, who is now the 2nd counselor of the Branch, had some work to do with the Branch Presidency and Antoneta was watching a movie, so I stole the girls. We walked around and I told them that if they promised to eat at least some of the dinner their Mom made them that they could get whatever they wanted. Sipping chocolate and Tiramisu, were the winning choices. I got Salep, again.

Shqiperia....

I arrived to Albania last night, late, and stayed at my friends the Agalliu's in Durres. I fell asleep to the oh so familiar sounds of dogs barking in the streets and people chatting. I no doubt drifted into my sweet slumber with the most content smile on my face. Who knew something could be so comforting. I set off this morning after feeling rested in search for my dear friends that I left over 2 years ago. I tell you what, kneeling down in prayer this morning and asking the Lord (in Albanian of course) to help me find the people I want to see, was strikingly similar to all those mornings of my mission days. It was exhilarating. I set off with no doubt it would all work out.

First Encounter: Shqiponja Brahimi, a woman that I spent a lot of time with in Durres. I had no problems finding her apartment, her staircase, and her door. I didn't even second guess a step, it was so natural. I walked up, and noticed the door was open! I talked to her husband and he invited me to come back this afternoon! Well, that was easy!

Second Encounter: A Familiar Face. I was walking to the Bank and saw someone selling beads on the sidewalk that looked incredibly familiar to the mother of one of my favorite most cherished families, Familija Osmanallaraj. I saw her, she looked at me and the most comforting "Welcome Home" feeling flooded over me. We embraced and time stood still. The busy street, the noise, everything just faded away and we stood there hand in hand. She wiped the hair out of my face and the tears off my cheek. Oh, how amazing it was to see those eyes again and to hear that voice. Hearing what she had to say to me after all these years was so sweet and precious. It was as if not a single second had passed by. All those worries about whatever, not being able to speak or understand or if they would be upset I didn't make it back sooner, all just melted away. I'll be waiting at their house when the girls come home from school. This will be such a dream come true for me. Seeing those girls once again.

Third Encounter: The Banana Man. For those that followed my letters from my mission might remember a Banana Man that I bought Bananas from every week. His name is Gezim and is such a sweet man. I wanted to walk to the Market and sure enough, there he was, guarding his post. He saw me, did a double take, and... embraced me. He was so happy to see me. His wife wasn't too far off and she did the same thing. He remembered everything about me, and of course, as expected... asked about my Dad and if he was in good health. I love these people, did I mention that? He asked if I could sit down with him for a while. All those times as a missionary I had to decline the invitation to "Pime nje Kafe" (aka sit and drink coffee and just shoot the breeze), well I was able to take him up on that offer. He asked if it was because I was a "Nun" that I wasn't married. I laughed out loud! I can't help but still laugh. That's me! The Nun! Sister Katherine!

Fourth Encounter: The bank. The ATM wasn't working and the security guard was trying to help me. HILARIOUS!!! He took my card out of my hand and read everything to me in Albanian. Then he recruited his buddies, they all have buddies that just hang out while they are at work. They take turns. So, I had 4 guys discussing my bank accounts and my card wasn't even in my hand. Now, I'm sure that would make just about everyone panic, but until you know these people I don't know if I could even begin to explain. After a group effort, I was able to get some leke. thank goodness!

I know that the encounters will keep on going. It's not even noon and I have a booked afternoon and tomorrow morning! I love it. I absolutely love it. No cell phone either. Just happen stance and knowing that the Lord will direct my path, especially in this magical place.

Ciao for now!

-Sister Katherine

Munchin in Munchen.....

Flew in to Munchen yesterday and had a 14 hr layover, so I decided to take the train into downtown Munchen to see the sights. As I walked around the airport and asked for directions and how to get to Munchen, everyone said, "Perfect timing for Oktoberfest!" I had no idea what to expect. The train ride was about 40 min and it was a beautiful smooth ride to the Marienplatz, City Center. When I came up from the Station, this is what I saw.
It was a beautiful day out, but it was still pretty early and the streets weren't that crowded yet. I was starving and followed my nose to this lovely little German delight.....
Bratwurst, Bread, and Mustard. Does it really get any better than this? It tasted simply delightful, delicious, and delovely. Yes, I just threw Bratwurst into that category!
I walked towards the Oktoberfest tents and these beautiful dried potpourri arrangements were everywhere, and incredibly intoxicating. They smelled amazing. The pictures are barely worth it.
Center of Oktoberfest and the Beer Gardens. It was neat to see everyone dressed in Lederhosen and Drindl, oh and did I mention the insane amounts of Beer people started drinking before 9am. Crazy! I had an amazing Sober Oktoberfest and enjoyed other munchies instead.
This is empty now, but it's basically a bar bike. People sit around it and peddle sideways, as if they are sitting at a bar. They drink, sing songs, and peddle around town. They were everywhere.
My beverage of choice: Melon, Lemon, Orange Juice. I finished my day in Munchen with a little nap in the middle of the park. It was so pleasant, and I was so exhausted. Yes, I was that bum in the middle of the park completely passed out. I loved it though, being there and just soaking everything up. I woke up when it got a little chilly and I headed back to the airport to get one step close to my dear Shqiperia!

Sailing On....

A lot has happened since my last post, and will take the time to update all that has happened as time permits. I did make it home in time to see my sweet Grandpa before he passed away on 9/9/10 in the morning next to my Grandma's side. His head directed towards her the entire night. Before his passing, my amazing family was able to be in his room and each have a chance to be with him. We sang some of his favorites to him: Edelweiss, Take Me Out to The Ball Game, On Wisconsin, Somewhere Over the Rainbow, and many more. It was beautiful. I have many photos that I will include in a future Post dedicated to him and the memories he left with me. That will have to come after this Adventure Part Deux wraps up.

Consider this post as a holding spot for my lovely time in Spain and the post about my Grandpa, I will get back to both of them. Time is precious, especially now that I have safely and successfully made it back to.... drum roll..... ALBANIA!!!!!!!!!!! I am sitting here now, the same place I would send emails home as a missionary. It's been raining, so I wanted to get this out of the way before I go and visit the most amazing people in the world... Shqiptaret!

Viva Espana!

Spain... amazing beaches, great SCUBA Diving, beautiful coastline, gorgeous Temple, delicious bocadillos, and stunning parks, castles, and museums. I have so much to share, and will share with you once I get the chance.

I got home (Heidelberg) last night around 1 am, and found out that my dear Grandpa, and Birding Partner, isn't doing well and I have decided to go home to be with him, my Grandma and my family during this time. I ask for your prayers in his name and for my family as well. I hope to make it back to Europe and wrap up this journey, but family comes first. I haven't slept for over 24 hours, have packed up everything and am heading out on the 2pm direct flight to SFO. All prayers, happy thoughts, smooth sailing vibes will be much appreciated.

KOBENHAVN, DANMARK

The last morning in Copenhagen was spent around our fort (campsite) and along the water. I dipped in the Baltic Sea and will say that Monterey is definitely colder! No question. Here are some pictures of our campsite. Those are our tents, bottom right. Mine was the small white one.
Destinations of the Day: The Little Mermaid, Tracking down the Christus, The Harbor, Open Faced Sandwhiches, and Tivoli Gardens.

The Little Mermaid Statue is located outside the city near the harbor on a rock in the bay, which we had detailed maps directing us straight to her. We walked through this beautiful garden and fortress to get to her, passing this amazing church and gorgeous statue.
We came to Ariel's posting place, and she was MIA! We asked some guys on a sailboat and they laughed at us! They told us how she's been blown up, stolen, and that her original head was at the bottom of some lake! What? What do they have against a mermaid? Apparently there are multiple versions of The Little Mermaid and the most current copy is on display in Shangai and before she swam out there, she was dressed in a burka! Poor Ariel.

We gave up that hunt and walked through the harbor and found another beautiful statue. A gaurdian angel for all the sailors in the harbor. A gaurdian against the weather, the seas, thieves... you know. ;)

Next stop Nyhavn (the Harbor) where we were hoping to have lunch and find the famous Danish Open Faced Sandwhiches. This is, hands down, my most favorite place in all of Europe. I could spend all 3 months in this place alone. It screams my name around every corner! Sea water, sailboats, old colorful buildings, good music, great seafood... ah!

An old Lightship...

Success! The Danish Open Faced Sandwhiches were found and conquered. I ordered whatever the waitress suggested as her favorite: smoked salmon, fennel, lemon, and egg. The salmon was so fresh and full of flavor. Worth every bite.
After our lunch we set out for the Christus. We were given a map from a lady at the temple with a circle on it depicting the area of where to find the church. We had the name, but misplaced it and figured we could just ask people where it was assuming that people would be familiar with it. That, unfortunately, was not the case but did not deter us from our search.

We came up to one church that said "Wedding Inside, No Admittance". So Mike, playing the dumb American walked right past it and went straight in the church. He poked around for awhile and then came out, "Not in here!". We decided to split up and look around. I found another old church (they're on ever corner) but no Christus here. Just a creepy statue of the grim reaper. No thanks. I crossed the street and found a Christian Outreach center, hopeful that they would be able to help me. The woman inside, who spoke perfect english, had no idea who I was talking about. I explained to her that it was a white marble statue of the resurrected Christ. Unique because He is not on the cross, his hands are stretched out with a robe over one shoulder. She pondered on the image and says, "Well, we did have.. ugh.. no.. that one was stolen a few weeks ago". (What is with stealing and defacing statues over here?!?). She then described this church across the street known locally as the "Church of the 12 Disciples". She says, "There are 12 large statues of the disciples, but no Christ". I decided to check it out anyway. Went to meet up with Sonila and Mike, then walked over to the "Church of the 12 Disciples". I wrapped around the large marble pillars, passed the statue of Moses and this is what I saw from the street. Such a familiar and inviting statue. Can you even see the 12 Disciples?

Christus, by Bertel Thorvaldsen (1700s). This, and the Temple, were no doubt the highlights of my weekend in Copenhagen. Sitting here and looking at the Christus in this quiet church was so peaceful and rewarding.

We left the Christus with feelings of contentment and accomplishment, the only place to see at this point was the famous Tivoli Gardens in downtown Copenhagen, the 2nd oldest amusement park in the world. Many people, including the book "1,000 Places To See Before You Die", suggested this as a must see attraction. If it wasn't so pricey, I might've enjoyed it a little bit more. We also allotted 5-6 hours for this place and had it covered in an hour. The rides looked like fun, but averaged around $10 a ride. The swings were $25. We walked around instead and admired the gardens and the magical fairytale feeling that danced throughout the park.

This was a fun sight welcoming me as I walked in.. the original Peacock Theatre.
This temple building was very impressive. The fountain you see is actually glass pillars with bubbles.

I snapped this photo for my Mom. The bucket of hydrangeas and small village in the back, couldn't help myself. Enjoy Mom!

Happy Little Pearl...
Look who we found basking in the sunshine! Ariel's sister, in one piece! This statue is a replica of the original and is safe guarded here in Tivoli Gardens.

Shark wrestling of course...
Coyote Pirates... where was this in our cove?!?!?

Tivoli Gardens is also home to the oldest boy guard in the world. We caught their performance on the way out of the park.

After 2 hours of Tivoli Gardens we decided to call it a day and start our journey back to Germany. We were accompanied by the sunset as we drove the 3 hr leg it would take us to get to our next campsite. As we were driving along, Sonila tuned in an Albanian radio station! In Denmark! It was hilarious! So we danced along.
We arrived to our campsite at 9:30, set up our tent, and got locked inside! That meant NO FOOD FOR US! I was starving so I decided to just go straight to bed. Woke up in the middle of the night in the freezing rain. I tried to warm up in the car, but that didn't work. We quickly took down our stuff, packed the car, and headed to Hannover. We found a very friendly German ward there that even translated for us with these nifty headsets. It was a fast and testimony meeting, which is one of my favorite things about traveling... seeing and hearing the testimonies of other members throughout the world. The feeling and Spirit is always the same, no matter what the ethnicity or the language.

All in all, this trip to Copenhagen might go down in history as the best trip in Europe I've had. The Temple, the Christus, the Harbor, the Sea, the history. I loved it.

Next stop: Barcelona and Madrid, Spain. We leave tomorrow and I haven't packed!